Exposición química y síntomas dérmicos y respiratorios en estilistas del sector informal de Palmira 2020 / Chemical exposure and dermal and respiratory symptoms in hairstylists in the informal sector in Palmira 2020

Introducción: Los productos cosméticos utilizados en los tratamientos de belleza contienen diferentes sustancias químicas toxicas irritantes y cancerígenas como el formaldehido, clasificado por la Agencia Internacional de Investigación sobre el Cáncer IARC (siglas en inglés) como tipo 2, probablemente cancerígeno en humanos (1) ; y el amoniaco también clasificado como cancerígeno por el Instituto Nacional para la Seguridad y Salud Ocupacional NIOSH (2) (siglas en inglés) , los cuales pueden ingresar al organismo por inhalación, vía oral, contacto en globo ocular y contacto con la piel produciendo diferentes síntomas clínicos en los estilistas. Objetivo: Identificar la exposición química y los síntomas relacionados en estilistas del sector informal del municipio de Palmira Colombia. Método: Se evaluaron las características de la población con una encuesta sociodemográfica de elaboración propia, las características de exposición química en los salones de belleza con el cuestionario de evaluación cualitativa Stoffenmanager, y los síntomas en la piel, mucosa ocular y vía aérea superior de los estilistas con el cuestionario nórdico de enfermedades cutáneas de origen profesional NOSQ-2002/SHORT. Las peluquerías fueron seleccionadas al azar de un universo de 35 peluquerías clasificadas según el número de trabajadores. Resultados: Las condiciones de exposición a químicos se evaluaron en 12 peluquerías, la exposición por inhalación fue alta en el proceso de alisado; la exposición dérmica por contacto fue alta en el alisado y en la coloración , y fue muy alta en la decoloración; la exposición dérmica por absorción fue alta en la coloración y muy alta en el alisado y la decoloración. Los síntomas dérmicos y respiratorios se evaluaron en 64 estilistas, encontrando síntomas dérmicos en el 51,6 % , y síntomas respiratorios en el 60,9 %. (AU)

Introduction: Cosmetic products used in beauty treatments contain different irritating toxic chemicals and carcinogens such as formaldehyde, classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer I.A.R.C. as type 2, probably carcinogenic in humans(1); and ammonia also classified as carcinogenic by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health NIOSH(2), which can enter the body through inhalation, oral route, eye contact and skin contact producing different clinical symptoms in stylists. Objective: To identify chemical exposure and related symptoms in hairdressers in the informal sector in Palmira, Colombia. Method: The characteristics of the population were assessed with a self-made sociodemographic survey, the characteristics of chemical exposure in the salons with the Stoffenmanager qualitative assessment questionnaire, and the symptoms in the skin, ocular mucosa and upper airway of the hairdressers with the Nordic questionnaire of occupational skin diseases NOSQ-2002/SHORT. The hairdressers were randomly selected from a universe of 35 hairdressers classified into three strata according to the number of workers. Results: Chemical exposure conditions were evaluated in 12 hairdressers, finding that inhalation exposure was high in the straightening process; dermal contact exposure was high in straightening and coloring, and very high in bleaching; dermal exposure by absorption was high for coloring and very high for smoothing and bleaching. Dermal and respiratory symptoms were evaluated in 64 stylists, finding dermal symptoms in 51.6%, and respiratory symptoms in 60.9%. (AU)

Nombrar los cosméticos: los orígenes y consolidación de la nomenclatura cosmética internacional / Naming cosmetics: origins and consolidation of the international nomenclature of cosmetics

Este trabajo estudia el desarrollo y consolidación de la terminología cosmética internacional en los EEUU y en Europa, considerando, especialmente, el periodo comprendido 1938 y 1996. El potente sector cosmético estadounidense desarrolló diferentes esfuerzos para estandarizar sus productos que culminaron, en 1973, con la publicación del Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary y de una nomenclatura específica denominada inicialmente CTFA Adopted Names y, desde 1993, International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). En Europa, el proceso de estandarización terminológica fue más tardío e implicó la coexistencia de diferentes estándares, así como la adopción final de las normas INCI de cara a los consumidores que consolidó un mercado cosmético internacional

This work studies the development and consolidation of an international terminology of cosmetics in both the United States and Europe, considering, mainly, the period between 1938 and 1996. The powerful cosmetic sector of the US made several efforts to standardize its products resulting in the publication of the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary in 1973, with a specific nomenclature initially called CTFA Adopted Names, and, since 1993, International Nomenclature of Cosmetic ingredients (INCI). In Europe, the terminology standardization process took longer, involving the coexistence of different standards, as well as the final adoption of INCI terminology for consumers, which consolidated an international cosmetic market

Enzymatic synthesis of coconut oil based wax esters by immobilized lipase EQ3 and commercial lipozyme RMIM

BACKGROUND: Liquid wax esters are widely used in cosmetic as well as pharmaceutical and other industries. The demand of organic and natural products is increasing nowadays. Coconut oil contains benefit fatty acids and has been mainly used for oil-based and moisturizer products. Liquid wax esters from coconut oil and unsaturated fatty alcohol can be synthesized by enzymatic reaction; and it is interesting for using as an alternative natural ingredient in these industries. RESULTS: Optimal condition for coconut oil based wax ester synthesis by immobilized lipase EQ3 was 10 U of enzyme, temperature at 30°C and molar ratio of coconut oil to oleyl alcohol at 1:3 (mol/mol) (0.33X) dissolved in isooctane for 12 h, while for Lipozyme RM IM optimal condition was 10 U of enzyme, temperature at 45°C and oil/alcohol molar ratio at 1:3 (0.33X) dissolved in isooctane for 3 h. Percentage of wax esters synthesized by both lipases reached more than 88%. Both immobilized lipases catalyzed high yield of wax esters within the 2nd batch; after that, the immobilized lipases showed reduced activity and synthesized b60% of wax esters from the 3rd to 5th batch. The main composition of wax esters was ~48% oleyl laurate with 10% degradation at ~250°C. CONCLUSIONS: The liquid wax ester synthesis by commercial Lipozyme RM IM had higher effect than immobilized lipase EQ3, but both catalysts were stable within 2 batches in the optimum condition. The characteristic properties of wax esters showed potential for use as components in cosmetics and skin care products.

Ocotea (Lauraceae) Amazonian essential oils chemical composition and their tyrosinase inhibition to use in cosmetics / Ocotea (Lauraceae) composición química de aceites esenciales amazónicos y su inhibición de la tirosinasa para usar en cosméticos

This study presents analyses on the chemistry, biology, pharmacology and chromatography of essential oils extracted from three species of the Ocotea genus: O. minor, O. ceanothifolia and O. leucoxylon. Leaves and stems, as well as the bark of O. minor, were processed using a modified Clevenger apparatus. Seven essential oils were obtained and analyzed using GC-FID and GC-MS, and their chemical compositions were determined. Assays of cytotoxicity, antioxidant and free radical scavenging activity, as well as tyrosinase and elastase inhibition were performed. In total, 25 constituents were identified, the principal being sesquiterpenes, such as spathulenol caryophyllene and its oxide. The oils did not present cytotoxicity using a hemolytic model, but also did not show antioxidant activity in the DPPH assay. Essential oil from stems of O. ceanothifolia, rich in spathulenol and caryophyllene oxide, demonstrated the capacity to inhibit 49.08% of tyrosinase activity at a concentration of 100 µg/mL. This research contributes to the chemical profile analysis of the three species of Ocoteathrough chemical investigations and biological activity, which are reported for the first time here in this study.

Este trabajo realiza un estudio químico, biológico, farmacológico y cromatográfico de aceites esenciales extraídos de tres especies del género Ocotea: O. minor, O. ceanothifoliay O. leucoxylon. Las hojas y tallos, así como la corteza de O. minor, se procesaron utilizando un aparato Clevenger modificado. Se obtuvieron siete aceites esenciales y se analizaron usando GC-FID y GC-MS, y se determinaron sus composiciones químicas. Se realizaron ensayos de citotoxicidad, actividad antioxidante y de atrapamiento de radicales libres, así como inhibición de tirosinasa y elastasa. En total, se identificaron 25 componentes, siendo los principales sesquiterpenos, como el spathulenol cariofileno y su óxido. Los aceites no presentaron citotoxicidad en un modelo hemolítico y tampoco mostraron actividad antioxidante en el ensayo con DPPH. El aceite esencial de tallos de O. ceanothifolia, rico en espatulenol y óxido de cariofileno, mostró capacidad para inhibir el 49.08% de la actividad de tirosinasa a una concentración de 100 µg/mL. Esta investigación contribuye al análisis del perfil químico de las tres especies de Ocotea a través de investigaciones químicas y actividad biológica la cual se informan por primera vez.

A indústria do branqueamento em Lisboa: uma etnografia das práticas e produtos para o branqueamento da pele e seus riscos para a saúde dermatológica / The industry of whitening in Lisbon: an ethnography of practices and products for skin bleaching and its risks to dermatological health

Resumo Por meio de um exercício de walking ethnography, pretendemos apresentar uma etnografia da oferta cosmética destinada à despigmentação da pele no coração de Lisboa, focando num fragmento da cidade que junta diferentes propostas e produtos estéticos: spas chineses, salões de beleza e cabeleireiros africanos, lojas do comércio dito "étnico" ligado a imigrantes e portugueses descendentes de populações asiáticas ou africanas. Definimos esse passeio como "caminho do branqueamento" - parafraseando ironicamente o título de um dos mais famosos livros de Michael Jackson, Paths towards a clearing (1989). Considerando o corpo como um projeto em construção, pretendemos mostrar que os imaginários e os desejos ligados ao consumo desses tratamentos, assim como os padrões de beleza veiculados pelo marketing dos produtos de clareamento da pele, refletem e reproduzem variáveis sociais de género, classe e raça. Queremos também evidenciar como a maior parte dos produtos branqueadores, vendidos no centro da cidade, são proibidos pela legislação europeia de regulamentação de cosméticos, devido às altas concentrações de substâncias tóxicas. Essas substâncias, que circulam livremente nas redes do comercio informal, podem ser muito prejudiciais para a saúde dos consumidores, comportando severos riscos dermatológicos.

Abstract Through a walking ethnography exercise, we intend to present an ethnography of the cosmetic offer aimed at depigmenting the skin in the heart of Lisbon, focusing on a fragment of the city that brings together different proposals and aesthetic products: Chinese spas, beauty salons and African hairdressers, shops of the so-called "ethnic" trade linked to immigrants and Portuguese descendants of Asian or African populations. We defined this tour as a "whitening path" - ironically paraphrasing the title of one of Michael Jackson's most famous books, Paths towards a clearing (1989). Considering the body as a project under construction, we intend to show that the imaginary and desires related to the consumption of these treatments, as well as the beauty standards conveyed by the marketing of skin whitening products, reflect and reproduce social variables of gender, class and race. We also want to highlight how most whitening products, sold in the city center, are prohibited by European cosmetics regulation legislation due to the high concentrations of toxic substances. These substances - which circulate freely in the networks of informal commerce - can be very harmful to the consumers' health, carrying severe dermatological risks.

Análise da composição do óleo essencial de Croton tricolor como um modelo na criação de acordes em fragrâncias na indústria da perfumaria / Analysis of the Croton tricolor essential oil composition as a model in the creation of fragrance accords for the perfumery industry

O uso de óleos essenciais na indústria de fragrância tem crescido a cada ano. A indústria de cosméticos, em geral, tem buscado este tipo de ingrediente com o objetivo de agregar atributos únicos e melhores aos seus produtos e assim entregar, ao consumidor final, diferenciais que poderão valorizar suas formulações, além de simplesmente perfumar. O benefício de usar óleos naturais ou acordes de seus principais componentes em formulações de fragrâncias é que estes se tornam composições mais ricas, e em muitos casos, capazes de proporcionar perfumação prolongada ao produto, quando comparados àqueles sintetizados. A presença de compostos variados nos óleos, como terpenos e resinas, ajudam a promover singularidades à fragrância e até mesmo servem como inspiração às criações de produtos com descrições olfativas de produtos naturais. Croton tricolor (Euphorbiaceae), segundo avaliação inicial de um perfumista, apresentou excelentes características olfativas, o que facilitou seu uso nos estudos. A análise do óleo essencial de C. tricolor por cromatografia à gás com detector de ionização de chamas (CG/DIC) e cromatografia à gás acoplada à espectrometria de massas (CG/EM) permitiu quantificar e identificar seus principais marcadores, bem como utilizar estas informações para construção de acorde olfativo, reproduzindo o odor do produto natural. O óleo essencial de C. tricolor apresentou como principais componentes o biciclogermacreno (15,4%), espatulenol (10,5%) e o alfa-pineno (6,8%). A partir destes dados foi construído um acorde aromático que reproduziu o odor original, contendo alfa-pineno (7%), álcool fenetílico (5%), óleo de cedro (5%), óleo de laranja (0,5%), limoneno (1%), eucaliptol (0,5%) e nerolidol (0,3%). Os compostos majoritários, biciclogermacreno e espatulenol, não foram adicionados por não serem disponíveis comercialmente, por isso, usaram-se outras matérias-primas semelhantes em perfil olfativo e ofertadas no mercado, como foi o caso do uso de álcool fenetílico, óleo de cedro e óleo de laranja na criação do acorde. Os resultados evidenciaram que a criação de acordes é um método economicamente viável para a reprodução de odores naturais que podem ser utilizados em formulações de fragrâncias, além de ajudar a resolver problemas na produção e comercialização de óleos essenciais como, sazonalidade e reprodutibilidade

The use of essential oils in the fragrance industry has grown every year. The cosmetics industry has generally sought this type of ingredient, with the aim of providing its products with differentiated benefits (unique and better attributes), and thus delivering to the final consumer a differential that can enhance their formulations, besides simply perfuming their products (theirs). The benefit of using natural oils or accords of their major components in fragrance formulations makes them richer, and in many cases capable of providing prolonged perfuming to the final product when compared to synthesized products. The presence of varied compounds in the oils, such as terpenes or (and) resins, helps to promote differentiated fragrance characteristics (singularities/peculiarities to the fragrance), or (and) even to serve as inspiration for product creations with olfactory descriptions of natural products. Croton tricolor (Euphorbiaceae), accordingly to an initial evaluation of a perfumer, presented excellent olfactory characteristics, which facilitated its use in the studies. The analysis of the C. tricolor essential oil by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector (GC/FID) and gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC/MS) allowed to quantify and identify their main markers, as well as to use this information to construct an olfactory accord that reproduces the odor of natural products. The C. tricolor essential oil had as main components bicyclogermacrene (15.4%), spathulenol (10.5%) and alpha pinene (6.8%). From these data, an aromatic accord was created reproducing the original odor containing alpha pinene (7%), phenethyl alcohol (5%), cedar oil (5%), orange oil (0.5%), limonene (1%), eucalyptol (0.5%) and nerolidol (0.3%). Some of the major compounds, bicyclogermacrene and spatulenol, could not be added because they were not commercially available. In these cases (therefore), other products (raw materials) with similar olfactory characteristics (olfactory profile) and commercially viable (offered on the market) were used, such as the use of phenethyl alcohol, cedar oil and orange oil in the accord creation. The results showed that accord creation is an economically viable method for the reproduction of natural odors that can be used in fragrance formulations and may help to solve problems that exist in the production and commercialization of essential oils such as production seasonality and reproducibility

Estudio botánico y farmacéutico de productos con aplicación en cosmética y cuidado de la piel / Botanical and pharmaceutical study of cosmetics and skin care products

Objetivos: revisar productos comerciales con ingredientes vegetales que se emplean en higiene personal y cosmética de uso diario. Reunir, en forma de catálogo, consideraciones botánicas y farmacéuticas de estos extractos. Métodos: se ha realizado un trabajo de campo durante seis meses, visitando las áreas de higiene y cosmética de 4 farmacias y de 3 grandes superficies comerciales de Sevilla. Se anotaron todos los productos en cuya etiqueta aparecía un nombre de planta: Se ha usado la bibliografía necesaria obtenida a través de bases de datos: Web Of Science, Scopus. Resultados y discusión: se encontraron extractos de 129 plantas diferentes, repartidas por todo el mundo vegetal (a excepción de briofitos). De ellas, 116 son plantas con semillas, distribuidas en 59 familias diferentes, siendo las más importantes: Asteraceae, Rosaceae, Lamiaceae, Poaceae, Fabaceae, Rutaceae y Sapindaceae. El 42% de las plantas son de porte herbáceo, el resto son leñosas y algunos talos. El origen de las mismas se puede relacionar con las áreas agrícolas tradicionalmente cultivadas por el hombre, de las que destacamos la franja mediterránea, Asia central, India, Sureste asiático, China y Japón. Los órganos más empleados en la elaboración de estos productos son: semillas, frutos, flores (seguidos por las hojas). Los metabolitos secundarios más abundantes son: flavonoides (quercetina, kaempferol, hesperidina), vitaminas (C), hidratos de carbono (carragenanos y fuciodanos) y lípidos (ácidos grasos mono y polinsaturados). Los usos principales son: poder antioxidante, aromas y fragancias, nutrientes e hidratantes de la piel, efecto fotoprotector, cuidado del cabello y anticelulítico. Conclusiones: La muestra de vegetales que se ha encontrado, puede ser representativa de las especies botánicas que aparecen en cosmética y productos para la piel, de uso diario en España. También se ha encontrado una base científica que sustenta las propiedades y beneficios de los extractos vegetales en estos productos

Objective: to review commercial products with vegetal ingredients that are used in personal hygiene and cosmetics of daily use. Collect, in the form of a catalog, botanical and pharmaceutical considerations of these extracts. Method: a field work was carried out during six months, visiting the areas of hygiene and cosmetics of four pharmacies and of three large commercial areas of Seville. All the products in which a plant name appeared appeared: used the necessary bibliography obtained through databases: Scopus, Web Of Science. Results and discussion: we found extracts from 129 different plants distributed throughout the plant kingdom (except for bryophytes). Of these, 116 are seed plants, distributed in 59 different families, being the most important: Asteraceae, Rosaceae, Lamiaceae, Poaceae, Fabaceae, Rutaceae and Sapindaceae. 42% of the plants are herbaceous, the rest are woody and some thallus. Their origins can be related to the agricultural areas traditionally cultivated by man, such as the Mediterranean, Central Asia, India, Southeast Asia, China and Japan. The most used organs in the elaboration of these products are: seeds, fruits, flowers (followed by the leaves). The most abundant secondary metabolites are: flavonoids (quercetin, kaempferol, hesperidin), vitamins (C), carbohydrates (car-rageenans and fuciodans) and lipids (mono and polyunsaturated fatty acids). The main uses are: antioxidant power, aromas and fragrances, nutrients and skin moisturizers, photoprotective effect, hair care and anti-cellulite. Conclusion: The vegetable sample that has been found may be representative of the botanical species that appear in cosmetics and skin products, and everyday products of Spain. A scientific basis has also been found that supports the properties and benefits of plant extracts in these products

Intensificação de processos na indústria farmacêutica, cosmética e alimentícia

Vídeoaula de Paulo Coutinho, gerente do Instituto Senai de Inovação em Biosintética, durante o 1º Seminário Internacional das RedesFito, organizado por Farmanguinhos com a proposta de discutir a inovação e a biodiversidade sob a ótica da sustentabilidade. Fazer uma abordagem da sustentabilidade e como acontece a intensificação de processos e a sustentabilidade de processos na indústria química. Apresentar o Instituto Senai de inovação em biossintéticos.

Análisis de la salud en el trabajo en una empresa de cosméticos en México / Analysis of Occupational Health at a Cosmetics Company in Mexico

La industria de los cosméticos es un sector económico pujante y en continuo desarrollo a nivel mundial, en sus procesos de trabajo utiliza gran cantidad de sustancias químicas, especialmente nanopartículas, que pueden dañar la salud de los trabajadores, los usuarios y el medio ambiente. Se realizó el estudio de un centro laboral dedicado a la fabricación y venta de cosméticos localizado en la Ciudad de México, el principal objetivo fue realizar la evaluación integral del proceso de trabajo y el medio ambiente laboral, y proponer una serie de recomendaciones que contribuyan a mejorar la salud y seguridad en el trabajo. Para recoger y procesar los datos básicos de la empresa, reconstruir los procesos de trabajo, obtener los Porcentajes de Eficacia (PE) y estructurar un programa de acciones preventivas y correctivas, se utilizó la metodología llamada Modelo PROVERIFICA. Se encontró que en la empresa laboran 317 trabajadores y los principales riesgos a que están expuestos son: ruido, sustancias químicas, ventilación deficiente, calor y accidentes; y exigencias tales como posiciones incómodas, esfuerzo físico y ritmo de trabajo intensos. En la calificación del medio ambiente laboral, los peores resultados fueron debidos a la nula Participación de los Niveles Directivos (PE=56.3) y el relativo abandono de los Servicios de Salud de los Trabajadores (PE=71.4) y de la Seguridad e Higiene (PE=75.0). En otros términos, es una firma donde la gerencia ha relegado la salud en el trabajo, a pesar de los peligros que entrañan las instalaciones y las sustancias que ahí se utilizan(AU)

The cosmetics industry is in a state of vigorous growth and development around the world. Many of the processes in this industry use a large amount of chemicals, particularly nanoparticles, which can harm the health of workers, consumers and the environment. A study was conducted at a workplace located in Mexico City where cosmetics are manufactured and sold. The main objective was to carry out a comprehensive assessment of the work process and working environment, and propose a series of recommendations to help improve health and safety at work. The PROVERIFICA Model (Verification, Diagnosis, and Monitoring Occupational Health in Companies) was used to collect and process basic information about the company, to reconstruct the work processes, to obtain efficiency percentages (EP) and to structure a program of preventive and corrective actions. The company has 317 workers, and the main risks they are exposed to include noise, chemicals, poor ventilation, heat and accidents; and workplace demands such as stressful positions, strenuous physical effort andan intense pace of work. The worst problems were found to be due to lack of participation by management (EP = 56.3) and relative neglect of workers by both employee health (EP = 71.4) and occupational safety and health services (EP = 75.0). In other words, this is a company where management has marginalized the issue of workplace health, despite the dangers inherent in the facilities and substances that are used in this workplace(AU)

Mercado de bioprodutos fitoterápicos e fitocosméticos: gestão, tecnologias e inovação / Phytotherapy and phytocosmetic bioproducts market: management, technologies and innovation

Este trabalho aborda o mercado de bioprodutos em Manaus (AM), as potencialidades tecnológicas de inovação e uso da gestão em cadeias produtivas, cuja base é a biodiversidade. O objetivo principal é identificar como o uso de técnicas e tecnologias, somadas aos processos de inovação e gestão, interatua no mercado de fitoterápicos e fitocosméticos em Manaus (AM) a partir de uma discussão teórica. O trabalho foi desenvolvido com uso de bibliografia especializada entre 2009 e 2015. Os termos gestão e inovação foram utilizados como aporte teórico e metodológico de identificação de fatos e processos, para analisarmos como ocorre a dinâmica de mercados específicos. O conceito de inovação, neste trabalho, identifica a potencialidade de como os processos de gestão podem impactar na biodiversidade e na sociedade. A gestão e a inovação são produzidas tendo o mercado como espaço de existência, o que permite manter os laços de comércio, reprodução de processos de criação e de novas tecnologias em suas especificidades, que podem se difundir ou não. As técnicas e tecnologias como elementos de inovação e gestão são fundamentais para o desenvolvimento do mercado, contraditoriamente elas são, também, uma das principais dificuldades de implementação.(AU)

This paper deals with the market of bioproducts in Manaus (AM) and technological potentiality of innovation and use of management in production chains whose base is biodiversity. The main objective of this work is to identify how the use of techniques and technologies combined with innovation processes and management interact in phytotherapy and phytocosmetics market in Manaus (AM) from a theoretical discussion. The work was developed using specialized literature between 2009 and 2015. The terms management and innovation were used as theoretical and methodological contributions of identification of facts and processes to analyze how the dynamics of specific markets occurs; the concept of innovation in this paper identifies the potential of how management processes can influence biodiversity and society. The management and innovation are produced with the market as space of existence, which allows maintaining trade ties and reproduction processes of creation and new technologies in specificities, which may be broadcast or not. The techniques and technologies as elements of innovation and management are critical to market development; contradictorily they are one of the main difficulties of implementation.(AU)

Colombian biodiversity, an opportunity for the strengthening of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries / La biodiversidad colombiana, una oportunidad para el fortalecimiento de las industrias farmacéutica y cosmética

Colombia, a country privileged by nature, where diversity of climates are created by large altitude gradients which generate a variety of ecosystems and beautiful badlands, punas, mountain forests, dry valleys, high deserts and salt flats; landscapes that have diversity of plants and animals and we are cataloged as one of the countries as the greatest diversity in the world, preceded by Brazil and followed by Indonesia, China and Mexico [1]. We have 28.000 plants and lichens; it is an invaluable heritage that can give to our country competitive advantages in the discovery and development of active ingredients for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry by sustainable use of our biodiversity.

Evaluation of the Brazilian Cosmetic Legislation and its impact on the industries during the 20th century

ABSTRACT Cosmetics have been used since the very first days of human life. This early and continuing consumption has resulted in the growth of the Cosmetic Industry (C.I.). The C.I. must continue to invest in the development of innovative products which are safe for the consumers. On the other hand, the Health Agency should issue laws regulating the development of products. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the Brazilian Cosmetic Legislation before ANVISA and the challenges for the C.I. during the 20th century regarding the development of safe and effective cosmetics, and to show the importance of this legislation in the R&D. A Bibliographic and Documentary Exploratory Research was conducted based on safety and efficacy data contained in scientific studies and legal documents. The study showed that the creation of ANVISA was necessary because no resolution had been published about the safety and efficacy of cosmetics for the C.I. before ANVISA. However, the challenges faced by the C.I. may have had a negative impact on the health of consumers. Finally, it was concluded that the actions before ANVISA were insufficient to the C.I.. Thus, the creation of ANVISA was essential to have a regulatory basis fot the C.I.

RESUMO Os cosméticos são usados desde os primeiros dias de vida do ser humano. Consequentemente, esse consumo resulta no crescimento da Indústria Cosmética (I.C.). Com isso, a I.C. deve focar seus investimentos também no desenvolvimento de produtos inovadores, mas, acima de tudo, seguros para os consumidores. Por outro lado, a Agência Sanitária deve emitir leis que regulam o desenvolvimento desses produtos. Assim, o objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar a Legislação Cosmética Brasileira anterior à ANVISA e os desafios da I.C. no século XX no desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos seguros e eficazes, bem como mostrar a importância dessa legislação na P&D. Para tal, realizou-se uma Pesquisa Exploratória Bibliográfica e Documental com base em estudos científicos e documentos legais. Dessa forma, o estudo mostrou que a criação da ANVISA foi necessária porque nenhuma resolução tinha sido publicada sobre a segurança e eficácia de cosméticos antes da ANVISA. Com isso, os desafios enfrentados pela I.C. poderiam ter um impacto negativo sobre a saúde dos consumidores. Por fim, concluiu-se que as ações anteriores à ANVISA foram insuficientes para a I.C. Assim, a criação da ANVISA foi essencial para ter uma base regulatória para a I.C..

Estudios para el aprovechamiento potencial de hojas de Guadua angustifolia Kunth (Poaceae), para el sector cosmético / Studies for the potential utilization of Guadua angustifolia Kunth (Poaceae) leaves for the cosmetic sector

Introducción: el aprovechamiento de residuos agroindustriales es una práctica que se trata de implementar por el impacto ambiental que representa. Objetivo: realizar un análisis bromatológico y fitoquimico de las hojas de Guadua y evaluar el efecto de algunas variables implicadas en el proceso de obtención del materia vegetal que puedan afectar el rendimiento y la actividad antioxidante del extracto hidroalcohólico. Métodos: se identificó cualitativamente los metabolitos secundarios presentes en las hojas y se complementó con un estudio bromatológico según normas AOAC. Mediante diseños de comparación simple y diseño factorial 22, se determinó la influencia del proceso de secado (natural y controlado), el tamaño de partícula (120 µm y 64 µm), edad de los cultivos (3-4 años) y el tiempo de almacenamiento de las hojas secas y molidas (1 y 6 meses) sobre el rendimiento de extracción y la actividad antioxidante ( Folin Ciocalteu y DPPH) del extracto hidroalcohólico. Resultados: las hojas secas revelan presencia de compuestos con actividad antioxidante (flavonoides y fenoles) y un 2,4 por ciento de nitrógeno menor al reportado para otros bambús. A partir de las hojas se puede obtener un extracto hidroalcohólico con un rendimiento hasta del 10,6 por ciento y con actividad antioxidante hasta de 9,2 mg ácido gálico/100g y 14,5 mg Trolox /100g. Se observó que la propiedad antioxidante del extracto hidroalcohólico y el rendimiento de extracción no varían con la edad de los cultivos (3-4 años) de donde provienen las hojas, ni con el método de secado, ni con el tiempo de almacenamiento de las hojas, mientras que si cambian con el tamaño de partícula. Conclusión: las hojas de Guadua por su actividad antioxidante son una materia prima potencial para ser usada en la industria cosmética(AU)

Introduction: the use of agro-industrial wastes is a practice that has been implemented by the environmental impact it represents. Objective: to perform a bromatological and phytochemical analysis of Guadua leaves and to evaluate the effect of some variables involved in the process of obtaining plant material that may affect the yield and the antioxidant activity of hydroalcoholic extract. Methods: secondary metabolites in the leaves were qualitatively identified and then supplemented with bromatologic study according to AOAC standards. Through a simple comparison designs and factorial design 22, there was determined the influence of the drying process (natural and controlled), the particle size (120 and 64 µm), crop age (3-4 years) and storage time of the dried and ground leaves (1 and 6 months) on the extraction yield and antioxidant activity (DPPH Folin and Ciocalteu) of hydroalcoholic extract. Results: dried leaves revealed the presence of compounds with antioxidant activity (flavonoids and phenols) and 2,4 percent nitrogen less than reported for other bamboo trees. From the leaves, one can obtain a hydroalcoholic extract with yield up to 10,6 percent and antioxidant activity up to 9,2 mg gallic acid / 100g and Trolox 14,5 mg / 100g. It was observed that neither age of the cultures (3-4 years) from leaves, the drying method, nor the time storage of leaves affect antioxidant properties and the extraction yield of hydroalcoholic extract, whereas these properties did change with the particle size. Conclusions: Guadua leaves, for their antioxidant activity, are a potential raw material for use in the cosmetics industry(AU)

Evaluación de la actividad antiinflamatoria del extracto etanólico del fruto de Passiflora mollissima (Kunth) L.H. Bailey "tumbo serrano" y su uso como activo biológico en industria cosmética / Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory activity of the ethanolic extract of the fruit of Passiflora mollissima (Kunth) L. H. Bailey "tumbo serrano" and its use as a biological asset in the cosmetic industry

Passiflora mollissima (Kunth) L.H.Bailey "tumbo serrano" es una planta nativa peruana, utilizada en medicina tradicional por sus beneficios en la salud y valor nutricional. Presenta compuestos polifenólicos principalmente flavonoides; responsables de la capacidad antioxidante y mayoría de propiedades farmacológicas. Los objetivos del presente trabajo: determinar la actividad antiinflamatoria del extracto etanólico del fruto de Passiflora mollissima (Kunth) L.H.Bailey "tumbo serrano" utilizando el modelo experimental: edema auricular inducido por TPA y su uso como activo biológico en la industria cosmética a través de pruebas de seguridad in vitro por el método Irritection Assay System (potencial de irritación dérmica) y el método HET CAM (potencial de irritación ocular). El extracto etanólico al 20% de Passiflora mollissima (Kunth) L.H.Bailey "tumbo serrano" presentaron actividad antiinflamatoria en las dosis de 500 y 1000 µg. En las pruebas de seguridad in vitro, se observó ligero potencial irritante. Conclusiones, en las condiciones experimentales se demostró que el extracto etanólico de Passiflora mollissima (Kunth) L.H.Bailey "tumbo serrano" presentó actividad antiinflamatoria y seguridad como activo biológico en la industria cosmética.

Curso virtual de Cosmetología y Dermofarmacia como herramienta de desarrollo profesional farmacéutico / On line course of Cosmetology and Dermopharmacy as a professional development tool for pharmacists

Introducción: el presente trabajo correspondió a un estudio cualitativo desarrollado para evaluar la implementación de una nueva herramienta de formación profesional farmacéutica en el marco del Programa de Recertificación Profesional Farmacéutica del Colegio de Farmacéuticos de Costa Rica. Objetivo: evaluar el uso de estrategias pedagógicas asincrónicas para profesionales farmacéuticos mediante el diseño de un curso virtual de Cosmetología y Dermofarmacia con acceso por Internet, el cual fue certificado por el Departamento de Desarrollo Profesional del Colegio de Farmacéuticos. Métodos: el curso se desarrolló durante dos meses, dividido en ocho módulos individuales. De los 60 profesionales que realizaron el curso, 45 concluyeron y se les envió la evaluación electrónica de la estrategia. El instrumento constaba de un formulario electrónico que se llenaba en línea con barenos de calificación y preguntas de cuantificación para evaluar el desempeño académico y el de la estrategia pedagógica como forma efectiva del desempeño de dichas actividades para la formación de los farmacéuticos. Los datos electrónicos se tabularon y analizaron utilizando Microsoft Office Excel 2007® y además se utilizó la técnica de triangulación para relacionar los datos obtenidos en cada una de las partes del instrumento. Resultados: se obtuvo una respuesta del 100 por ciento de los evaluados; el 36 por ciento fueron hombres, el 64 por ciento mujeres; y entre los principales resultados más de un 90 por ciento consideró que la estrategia era muy importante, interesante y útil. Conclusiones: la estrategia pedagógica resulta efectiva como una forma de promover la actualización profesional de farmacéuticos que por sus labores o distancia a la que se encuentran de la capital no pueden acceder a capacitaciones presenciales(AU)

Introduction: this paper comprised a qualitative study conducted to evaluate the implementation of a new tool for the pharmaceutical professional training under the pharmaceutical professional re-certification program of the College of Pharmacists of Costa Rica. Objective: to evaluate the use of asynchronous teaching strategies for pharmacists through the design of an online course on Cosmetology and Dermopharmacy, certified by the Department of Professional Development in the College of Pharmacists. Methods: this course was scheduled for two months divided into eight individual modules. Forty five of the 60 professionals enrolled in the course finished their training and were sent the electronic evaluation of the strategy. The instrument consisted of an electronic form to be filled on line with baren rating and quantifying questions in order to evaluate the academic performance and the teaching strategy as an effective way of carrying out those activities for pharmaceutical training. The electronic data were tabulated and analyzed using Microsoft Office Excel® 2007 in addition to the triangulation technique to relate data from every part of the instrument. Results: all the evaluated participants responded; 36 percent were men and 64 percent women and over 90 percent believed that the strategy was very important, interesting and useful. Conclusions: it was concluded that the teaching strategy is effective as a way to promote the professional development of pharmacists, who are unable to attend face-to-face training courses due to the nature of their work or how far away they live from the capital of the country(AU)

Perfumes e colônias no comércio ilegal / Perfumes and colognes in the illegal trade

Perfumes e colônias são elaborados a partir de uma criteriosa seleção de matérias-primas que, combinadas,conferem características únicas e de alto valor agregado ao produto. Em virtude da enorme lucratividadeque o setor da indústria cosmética proporciona, a comercialização de produtos falsificados crescecontinuamente. Este estudo analisou a autenticidade e a segurança de perfumes e colônias de marcasnacionais encontrados no comércio clandestino de São Paulo, avaliando-se os parâmetros microbiológico,citotóxico, perfil cromatográfico e de autenticidade. Houve divergências entre as características dasamostras analisadas e dos padrões de referência, as quais indicam que estes produtos não eram procedentesdas empresas detentoras das marcas. Este dado serve de alerta para intensificar a fiscalização e adoção demedidas contra a prática da falsificação, como as campanhas educativas, para esclarecer os riscos que estesprodutos podem causar à saúde e à segurança dos consumidores.

Los fitoingredientes en el cuidado de la piel / The phytoingredients in skincare

Movidos por el nuevo paradigma "eres lo que consumes", los consumidores responsables encuentran en la fitocosmética productos con beneficios diferenciales para su salud y el medio ambiente. Los grupos fitoquímicos de interés presentes en los fitoingredientes permiten predecir el tipo de extracto a utilizar, los métodos de extracción y control de calidad apropiados, ya que son los responsables de su actividad cosmética. Clasificados en forma general como polifenoles, sponinas, hidratos de carbono, lípidos, aceites esenciales, resias, vitaminas, péptidos, entre otros grupos, pueden aportar actividades cosméticas específicas como antioxidantes, antiinflamatorios, reguladores de la síntesis y degradación de proteínas dérmicas, inhibidores de la tirosinasa, tensioacticos, por interaccionar en los procesos de comunicación celular, o por sus propiedades emolientes, oclusivas e hidratantes, entre otras. La fitocosmética sustentada en evidencias científicas desarrolla productos eficaces (AU)

Diven by the new paradigm of "you are what you consume", responsible customers finds in phytocosmetics products differential health and environmental benefits. The phytochemical groups of interest in the composition of phytoingredients allow to predict the type of extract, the extraction methods and the appropriate quality control, since they are responsible their cosmetic activity. Generally classified as polyphenols, sponins, carbohydrates, lipids, essential oils, resins, vitamins, peptides, among other groups, they may provide specific cosmetic activities as antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, regulators of synthesis and degradation os skin proteins, tyrosinase inhibitors, tensioactive, through the interaction with the cellular communication processes, or by its emollient, moisturizing and occlusiveness properties, among many other. The phytocosmetics supported by scientific evidence help in the development of effective products (AU)

Diseño y desarrollo de dos mascarillas faciales para el acné con quitina como sustancia bioactiva / Design and development of two face packs for the acne where chitin is the bioactive substance

La industria cosmética brinda importancia al logro de un cosmético más completo, un cosmecéutico, que represente seguridad en el mantenimiento de la salud y la belleza. En este trabajo se diseñaron y desarrollaron 2 mascarillas faciales para el acné con quitina al 2 por ciento como sustancia activa. Este polímero de origen marino posee propiedades hidratantes, filmógenas, ha sido demostrada su acción cicatrizante y antimicrobiana. Se realizaron 2 diseños de experimentos con mezcla D-optimal, y se estudió la incidencia de 3 componentes en ambas mascarillas: polyquaternium-7 (salcare SC91®) en una de las variantes a ensayar y carboximetil celulosa sódica (CMC) en la otra, propilenglicol y agua en ambos casos. Se analizaron en el tiempo el pH y la extensibilidad; resultó óptima la variante 4 del diseño (salcare SC91 2 por ciento , propilenglicol 2 por ciento y agua al 91,6 por ciento ) en el caso de la formulación con salcare y la variante 5 (CMC 2 por ciento , propilenglicol 4 por ciento y agua 89,6 por ciento ) en la formulación con CMC

The cosmetics industry attaches importance to the achievement of a more complete cosmetic, a cosmoceutic representing safety in health and beauty maintenance. In present paper were designed and developed two face packs for acne using 2 chitin as active substance. This polymer of marine origin has phylmogen and hydration properties and a demonstrated healing and antimicrobial action. Two experimental designs were carried out with a D-optimal mixture and also the study of incidence of three components of both face packs, polyquaaterium-7 (salcare SC91®) in one of the variants be assayed and sodium cellulose carboxymethyl (SCC) in the other one, 2 percent propylene glycol and 91,6 percent water) in the case of salcare formula and the 5 variant (2 percent SCC, 4 percent propylene glycol and 89,6 percent water) in SCC formula